The rains in Kerala are no reason to put travel on hold; they are an invitation to be out there. When the Western Ghats are in a cloud and the waterfalls are in full voice, those who like to keep costs down will find a lot of bang for their buck. These are some of the best ways to make a monsoon drive in Kerala count.
Why a monsoon run from Kerala is its own thing
The season has a way of washing the place clean. The tea country is more vivid, the woodlands put on a film-like quality and the roads up in the hills ask for a leisurely pace. You have fewer people in your way and the temperature is kinder, so a weekend off is both affordable and well-earned.
In a small area you will find it all: the high ground, some backwaters, old-world streets and rainforest, all put in order by a good shower.
Hills and plantations: where the air is right
Make for Munnar. Let the rain do its work and places like Attukal, Lakkam and Nyamakad put on a different face. There is no rush to a walk through the plantations, and a misty corner of the valley is enough to pique your interest.
Head over to Coorg in Karnataka for a change of scenery and some coffee in the air. With Abbey Falls in full flow and some good curves to be had, it is a fine day out. Rough numbers for a 2-day/1-night: Getting there from Kerala: Rs 1,500-Rs 3,000; Accommodation: Rs 1,500-Rs 4,000 a night; Meals and around town: Rs 1,000-Rs 1,500; You are looking at Rs 4,000-Rs 8,000 in all.
Then there is Ooty, which has a way of making the most of a wet day. The Nilgiri Mountain Railway makes its way through the vapour and the lake and gardens seem to have been given a new coat of paint. To and fro: Rs 1,500-Rs 3,500; Put up: Rs 1,500-Rs 5,000 per night; Eating and seeing the sights: Rs 1,500-Rs 2,000; All in: Rs 5,000-Rs 10,000 a head.
Mist and quiet, no fuss
Coonoor is where you go for a bit of peace in the tea country and to see Dolphin’s Nose from above the clouds. The toy train is a nice touch. Or stay in-state at Vagamon and leave the noise behind for some meadows and a waterfall or two that has been well-watered.
Kodaikanal, if you want to be still. The view from the lake or a spot on Coaker’s Walk has a certain softness to it when it is drizzling. Travel: Rs 2,000-Rs 4,000; Lodging: Rs 1,500-Rs 4,500 a night; The rest: Rs 1,500-Rs 2,000; Comes to about Rs 5,000-Rs 10,000 per person.
Some drama, a few waterfalls
You would be hard-pressed to pass up on a monsoon in Athirappilly.
There is a certain power to the Chalakudy when it’s in full spate, making for what some call the Niagara of India. Vazhachal is not far off, and the road to Malakkappara has a way of putting a film-like quality to the view.
If an unorthodox kind of adventure is what is called for, head to Valparai in the Anamalai Hills. It is where you will find a tangle of good roads, tea plantations and rainforest paths that give way to a fine vantage point on a whim. (A rough guide to costs: Travel Rs 1,500-3,000; a night’s room at Rs 1,200-3,500; meals and sights around Rs 1,000-1,500. You are looking at Rs 4,000-8,000 in all.)
In Wayanad, the monsoon has its own temperament. The Pookode Lake is all ripples under the cloud cover, the Edakkal Caves are a bit more temperate, and the Thamarassery Ghat is a display of green and fog. For the drive itself, put in Kakkadampoyil with its curves and valleys fresh from the rain.
Up in Kannur, Paithalmala is a draw for those who like to put in some miles on foot. At over 1,300 metres, the grasslands open up to the horizon when the sky is clear between one shower and the next.
Calm breaks, culture and wellness
Kumarakom is the place to be for a change of pace. The backwaters are quiet here. One can make a day of it on a houseboat, with the coconut palms and canals as company, and perhaps some time for an Ayurvedic treatment.
Or try a coracle on the Kallar at Konni Adavi. It is a different sort of experience, with the forest closing in and the light doing most of the work.
Mysuru is good for an evening when the rain is in the air. A run through the Palace, up to Chamundi or down to Brindavan, followed by a hot snack and a long drive through town.
Yercaud in the Shevaroy Hills is a milder option, with its coffee and orange groves. Those with a taste for it can make for the overcast peaks of Chikmagalur. Then there is Agumbe, the Cherrapunji of the south, for the kind of monsoon that means waterfalls and a hard-hitting sunset.
Plan smart, spend less
The rain makes for a better road trip if one is ready for it. Hilly country is unpredictable and the scenery is at its best in the lulls. A little planning goes a long way.
Before setting out:
– See what the weather is like on your route
– Make sure the Ghats are passable
– Have a look at any local advisories
– Put safety first in a heavy downpour
– Be ready to adjust
For the budget-conscious, a two-day, one-night in Coorg or Valparai will run about Rs 4,000-8,000 a head. Ooty and Kodaikanal are in the Rs 5,000-10,000 range.
But the value of a drive in Kerala in this season is in the feeling of it. With the windows down and the scent of the earth, the terrain is in constant flux. Whether it is the noise of a fall, the hush of a forest or the stillness of the backwaters, the monsoon has a way of dictating the terms.
